Hidden dangers: Synthetic braiding hair contains toxins

MISHA THOMAS | THE CHARLOTTE POST

Chemicals in synthetic hair is a growing concern for consumers of wigs and extensions, a $6.13 billion market in 2021 that's expected to grow by 8% over the next decade.

There is a deep-rooted cultural tradition in the Black community of braiding and styling hair.

The ritual is deeply rooted in cultural expression and a symbol of identity. The global hair wigs and extensions market size was valued at $6.13 billion in 2021 and is expected to increase by 8% over the next 10 years.

Extensions along with braiding hair and wigs offer convenience and versatility. However, a study published in 2023 by the National Library of Medicine describes how inadequate regulation of substances involved in braiding makes Black women more susceptible to exposure to carcinogens. While the public is becoming more aware of harmful chemicals such as those found in hair relaxers, synthetic extensions have not been recognized as a source.

“As someone who uses synthetic braiding hair and sells these products, I often feel conflicted,” said Latoya Frye, a cosmetologist and owner of All Crowns Beauty Supply LLC in Raleigh. “While my role as a retailer means potential profit loss, I prioritize quality in the beauty industry. If the situation leads to better product options, I have no concerns because my goal is to offer the best to my customers. From a consumer perspective, it would really push me to seek out options that are healthier for my well-being.

“I frequently wear protective styles using braiding hair or synthetic hair, and this raises my concerns and drives me to find better alternatives to achieve my desired looks, which might be challenging.”

Researchers examined 10 synthetic hair brands from the United States, China, Ghana and Nigeria to test their toxicity. The results uncovered an alarming level of heavy metals including lead, cadmium, chromium along with hazardous pesticides. The researchers wrote: “We found that all of them had different levels of contaminants such as silver, cadmium, chromium, nickel, vanadium and lead, including several pesticides which are hazardous to human health.” Since the presence of pesticides far exceeded permissible levels, it was found to be contaminated with 11 chemical compounds.  

Man-made fibers go through chemical processes to make them look and feel closer to human hair. Materials used to make extensions are mainly made from plastics that are not biodegradable and typically made from acrylic fiber, nylon or kanekalon. Acrylic fiber is made from monomers found in coal and petroleum. The material then goes through a chemical process called polymerization that converts the monomers into long strands of plastic called polymer. The strands are then melted to form thin strands.

The health risks

A common method of stabilizing synthetic fibers is to use lead. There are serious health risks associated with lead, particularly for women and children where high levels can damage vital organs, impact brain development, and contribute to thyroid disorders or cancer.

When women wear synthetic hair, whether attachments, weaves or wigs they risk exposure to the chemicals. Harmful chemicals like polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polypropylene, and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are also found in synthetic hair fibers. These chemicals can be linked to a range of health issues, including skin irritation, respiratory problems, and even cancer. To make matters worse, synthetic hair extensions can contain heavy metals such as lead and cadmium, which are toxic to human health. Skin absorbs these metals, which can accumulate in the body over time, leading to long-term health effects.

Frye said she was unaware of the risks but supports disclosure of chemical content.

“I’ve had allergic reactions and severe itching from using braiding hair,” she said. “I believe it’s essential to be informed about the products we apply to our hair and skin, just as we are cautious about the food we consume. This knowledge empowers us to make informed choices.”

The alternatives

Products to replace harmful synthetic hair extensions are slowly growing market share. Most options, like ethically sourced human hair extensions, can cost thousands. But retailers can consider a couple of frontrunners when stocking their stores.

Rebundle, a sustainable hair extension company, introduced ReGen Hair Fiber in 2019. The extensions are made from banana fibers, which are biodegradable and compostable—making them an excellent alternative to plastic-based synthetic hair extensions.

The extensions are not only environmentally friendly but also gentle on the skin. Unlike synthetic extensions, which can cause scalp irritation, ReGen Hair Fiber is hypoallergenic and safe for sensitive skin. The fibers are also soft and lightweight, making them comfortable to wear.

The cost of human hair wigs and extensions can be pricey, with some wigs costing upwards of $1,000 for three bundles of hair. Rebundle ranges from $45-$50 per bundle.

The Korean company Spetra Hair also offers affordable, eco-friendly synthetic hair products made from natural plant fibers and protein blends. The hair fibers are biodegradable, hypoallergenic, and free of harmful chemicals.

As opposed to traditional synthetic hair extensions, Spetra Hair fibers break down naturally and do not contribute to plastic pollution. The fibers are also produced using sustainable farming practices, reducing their environmental impact.

Another advantage is its versatility. The hair is lightweight which makes it ideal for braiding or wig making. Furthermore, the hair is long-lasting and durable, making it a valuable investment for those looking for long-lasting, high-quality extensions. Prices for bundles are less than $50.

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